Several weeks have passed since I finished
installing the disc brakes. The Fury is still on blocks and received
the regular, necessary services and also some improvements on the chassis
- like an original sway bar. More about it later…
Next thing on my “To Do List” is the master
brake cylinder and the hardware to install.
The MBC doesn’t have any rust protection so
it should be painted before installing. Also the callipers already show
some rust spots on the surface so I had the pleasure to remove them
again and paint them with special high temperature paint for callipers.
Before the MBC can be installed the push rod grommet
of the original master should be installed. The grommet delivered with
the kit is too small. Removing the air pressure tank of the PS-unit
gives a free access to place the new brake lines.
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With the push rod screwed completely back the MBC
can be installed. |
A front outlet is provided for the brake light
switch, but it doesn’t fit in. Either the thread on the brake
light switch or on the MBC must be reworked. |
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Another possibility is to close the outlet and
install a separate brake light switch that works without hydraulic pressure
on the brake pedal. I already did that some years before due to the
fact that the stock switch needs a certain minimum pressure to work
and is not adjustable. Also it is not very reliable and I had to change
two of them in one year. The manual switch is adjustable and works immediately
when you hit the pedal. |
The brake lines can be brought in position now.
I decided to start with the rear circuit. Due to the headers in my engine
compartment there was no better chance except to fasten the original
brake line like this: I had to overhaul the PS-unit so removing it was
no extra work for me. |
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Proportioning valve is installed. I used a brass
connection with a double thread between the MBC and the valve. Now the
MBC works as a bracket for the proportioning valve. |
The outlet for the front circuit is very close to the air pressure
tank. Consider that when you seek a place for the lines. |
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Front circuit to junction block. The
former intake of the junction block is bigger than the three outlets.
The kit contains a plug to close the intake (red arrow). I used the
outlet of the former rear circuit as an inlet for the new front circuit.
– Works fine!
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The flexible brake hoses are installed, but the
bracket bent the hoses too much. It doesn’t look very safe to
me! |
I remove the bracket and… |
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… drill a second hole about 90 degrees above
the first one in the same distance to the center hole.
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This looks way much better now and allows the brake
hose a free movement without being bent to the limits. A new brake line
can be prepared now. |
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Special brake line tool helps a lot, but the neck
of a Coke bottle does the same!
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Do the same on the right side of the car, the difference
being the hole is drilled 90 degrees under the first one.
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The brake lines can be bled
now. Check if all lines are tight, especially the new ones! When this
work is done it most likely happens that the brake pedal hits the ground.
Don’t be concerned! It happened to me, cost me two evenings of
work and I pushed another two quarts of brake fluid trough the lines
in a despairing search for bubbles. The reason is the push rod. It must
be adjusted to the right position. But before you do it, readjust the
rear brake drums. It permits a more precise adjustment of the MBC.
Conclusion:
I haven’t driven the Fury for more than a couple of miles now
and it is probably to soon to give a final statement about how the disc
brakes work and if they deliver what they promise. One thing is for
sure: The bouncing disappeared, the pedal gives a more precise pressure
point and the fading to the left or right is gone. Maybe - I’ll
purchase the kit for the rear axle too. – Stay tuned!
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