As you probably know from reading the
first and second part of the DBC, my Sport Fury had severe problems
with the front and rear brakes due to a misalignment of the turn lace
during the brake drum overhaul. After the front end was done the behaviour
improved considerably, but the rear end was still hopping. The options
were to buy another set of used brake drums and run the risk of failure,
or to spend a little more money and make it NEW. As I had already
crushed
several sets of drums the decision wasn’t very difficult. Here
are the pictures for you – enjoy it!
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Finally the package arrived. Heavy stuff, and it
cost a small fortune to ship to my place.
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Check all parts – is everything there? |
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Well this time I’ll try to be smarter. The
callipers are painted before installing… |
…and the rotors receive a zinc coating to
prevent surface rust. |
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Let’s start to work. The rear axle and a historical
moment! I expect a considerable improvement of brake performance and
less vibration. |
The brake pads are fully attached to the drum, so the drum is tight.
With a drill I try to place the hole right in the middle of each rivet
in order to not damage the hub. |
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Then I hammer the rest of the rivets out and remove
the drum. |
Next step is to remove the hub… |
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…as well as the backing plate and the brake lines.
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The outer surface of the hub becomes rusty very quickly. I cleaned
it with a brush and spray it with zinc-spray.
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Also the lug bolts may be installed now.
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Everything is set now – goodbye, left thread!
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The original bolts of the backing plate
are punched out… |
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…and replaced with the longer
bolts from AAJ. (It’s not necessary to remove the axle shaft,
as shown here; but I still had to do some other work to do on the differential.) |
I switch to the other side now. There
the light is better for taking pictures. |
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The spacers will be replaced as they
have been removed before. Don’t forget them! |
The dust seal carefully placed into
the plate… |
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… and the plate slips onto the
axle shaft. |
Now the first piece of the bracket is
mounted and… |
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… tightened with a torque wrench. |
The second bracket holds the calliper. |
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Another point of view. I used Locktite
on these bolts. |
With the calliper installed, ready for
a test. |
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Hub on the axle shaft. |
(This space for rent! An updated caption
to appear here shortly...) |
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The disc is placed onto the bolt... |
…and a new key is used. |
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This little shim comes with
the kit. It holds the brake hose in place. I decided to weld it onto
the axle U-bolt. |
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Everything installed, all bolts checked,
brake lines attached (left side again shown here). |
And almost ready to go, except…. |
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Same procedure as last year. |
Finally the Disc Brake
Conversion is done and my Sport Fury rolls down the road again. Everything
runs smooth now and AAJ proved once again that they did a good job.
If you don’t go for racing and have, unlike me, a good set of
rear brake drums, in my opinion it is not absolutely necessary to go
for
the rear disc brakes. The weight on the rear axle is relatively low
and the additional improvement of brake performance will be very little,
but considering security and maintenance (readjusting) it is more comfortable.
Another big improvement is, that the shafts can be removed without
pulling the hubs off the shaft, this is and remains a big headache
for all who have drums.
There is another reason why I decided for rear discs - The Master Brake
cylinder is designed for disc/disc and not for disc/drum. Keep that in
mind when you are going for the front end only.
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